The South Will Rise Again (Part I)

Brazil is a diverse country.  This is evident in the food, music, dance, and faces of its people.  Brazil claims Portuguese, German, Italian, Lebanese, and Japanese in its melting pot of foreign immigrants.  But there was a time when a significant number of (ex) Americans were making their way to the southern hemisphere in droves.

A little known piece of history about the settling of Brazil has direct ties to the Civil War in the United States.  After the Confederates lost the battle to secede from the Union, and thus the right to keep slaves, the economy was not exactly healthy and many once comfortable families were then struggling.  In stepped Brazil, wanting to increase its own agriculture and economy by enticing new potential citizens - of the "right" color and breeding, essentially - to move and help settle Brazil.

Thus, beginning in 1866, most of these "Confederados" began settling in what is now the state of São Paulo, around the municipality of Campinas, as it was one of the few parts of the country where Catholicism was not the dominant faith.  Here Presbyterian, Pentecostal, Baptist, Episcopalian, and other Protestant communities were in abundance.  This became especially true of Santa Bárbara D'Oeste and the neighboring, appropriately named Americana, both of which still exist today.

"Nationalities of Immigrants Entering São Paulo State from 1827-1936"
The Ex-Americans would likely have been classified as "não especificados"
as many of them did not identify with the United States of America as it was.
Also, the total of Confederado immigrants was only about 10,000 people.

To oversimplify things would be to say that these Confederates were bitter about losing their right to slaves and moved to some place that still allowed them, however, most of these immigrants were too poor to afford slaves once they got here and ended up working the land themselves for wealthier land owners, though in better conditions than the existing slave workforce. Nevertheless, their presence brought increased population and progress to the area, as these new immigrants brought with them their Southern traditions and agricultural methods.  Ironically, slavery became illegal in Brazil less than twenty years from when the Confederados first arrived.

In what was once an old town jail in Santa Bárbara D'Oeste, today stands the Museu da Imigração, a small testament to the reason why the Confederate flag can still be seen in a country thousands of miles and a continent away from where it was conceived.  In fact, there is a festival* in April of each year - in the cemetery where most of these immigrants are buried, no less - celebrating the bygone antebellum days.  (Herein lies "Part II"...)

Top: A baseball team composed of Confederados and their descendants
circa 1900.  Bottom: A Confederate $2 bill. The museum had many remnants
of life, such as this, likely brought with during the migration and left in the
bottom of drawers and closets for future relatives to find.

*I highly recommend checking out the website (As a Yankee northerner - redundant? - I enjoy the "Heritage, Not Hate" part.)

Copa Controversy

Continuing with the mantra that "bad press is still press," the media reporting on the upcoming Brazil-hosted FIFA World Cup took a break from the typical bashing of unfinished stadiums, infrastructural challenges, and general governmental corruption to bring you this:

It seems that Adidas has introduced a line of World Cup themed apparel in the US that has Brazilian authorities and event organizers upset.  Understandably, by hosting the World Cup, Brazil hopes to highlight other aspects of the country other than the stereotypical beaches and butts.  Or at least wants to be the sole controller and perpetuator of such stereotypes. 

Hopefully they will lead by example when the Opening Ceremonies debut on June 12th and allude to nothing tropical or sexual.

Edited to add: These mock designs were proposed as a preferred alternative by the Ministry of Sport. Well played, Brasil.

Don't Ever Change

The tiny colonial seaside port town of Paraty (say: pah-rah-CHEE) has seen many incarnations since it was first settled in the 1500's.  Since then, this modest town has played part in the import of miners and export of gold from the adjacent state of Minas Gerais and then for coffee after that.  Each industry eventually ended their mutual relationship with the port after the development of roads from other coastal locales such as Rio de Janeiro or São Paulo, which proved to be time-saving in terms of travel.

Consisting mostly of one or two-story white-washed colonial-era buildings with brightly colored doors and windows, Paraty is an easy place to get lost in.  Not physically, since it spans only a handful of blocks in any given direction, but mentally, as any visitor is easily transported to a simpler time.  It is not difficult to imagine horses clomping down the cobble-stoned streets, now off-limits to cars.  (And these cobble-stones are not small; it behooves pedestrians to keep one eye on their next step at all times.)

For a small town, it is strange to find so many churches scattered throughout its historic center.  Though small, and all Catholic, it turns out each was intended for different congregants: one for wealthy whites (built in 1800), one for slaves (1725), and another (1722) for mulattos - children of mixed race, but not necessarily slaves.

Before numeric addresses, most postage was directed to a street name and
door color, making it preferable to not have repeated colors on the same block.

The bay of Paraty is dotted with many small islands leading out to the open Atlantic Ocean.  We boarded a schooner for an afternoon of island hopping and enjoying the unique and majestic views of this region's coastline, known as the Mata Atlantica, a geographic and ecologic region with characteristics unique only to here (which I've had the pleasure to visit twice before whilst in Ubatuba and Ilha Grande).

Afternoon on the schooner Moana, touring the Bay of Paraty.

The beaches in Paraty are nothing to write home about, however, those of the islands in the bay, as well as several a short drive to the south are among the best in Brazil.  We ventured to the community of Trinidade, an old fishing village now filled with pousadas, restaurants, and hostels, to settle on Praia Meio for an afternoon.

Excuse the duck-face and douche-y peace sign - too much sun and
beautiful scenery make me a wannabe a surfer-bro.

It was a great decision that Brazil made Paraty a National Historic Site back in the 1960's, thus preserving its character for that niche group of tourists who want some sun and sand with a lot of timeless charm.

Taking the Long Way

After nearly seven years living abroad and countless other flights here and there, it was bound to happen.  My luggage failed to complete the trip with me.  I was overdue, really.  With the way the journey went, however, I would have been impressed had the baggage appeared on the luggage claim belt.

Here're the highlights:

DAY 1 - Sunday, Jan 5

Chicago O'Hare (ORD)

• Check my two bags through to Brazil.  Last time I have seen them.
• Intended flight plan: ORD - DFW - GIG - VCP (First two on American, last one on TAM.)
• Board plane in ORD half-hour late.  Still fine for connection.
• Sit on runway for almost an hour more because "there is no crew."  Also, "sorry, we shouldn't have boarded you."
• Eventually find a crew and arrive in DFW too late to make connecting flight to Rio de Janeiro (GIG).

Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW)

• Speak with a gate agent who rebooks me the next day via Miami (MIA) on American and on to São Paulo (GRU) via TAM and gives me a partial hotel voucher.
• Agent informs me that I can not get my bags, but they will be reticketed and rerouted to match my final destination.  Agent also says that I may inquire about the status of my bags the next day.
• I go to the lovely Grand Praire Hyatt and pass out.

DAY 2 - Monday, Jan 6

Dallas/Fort Worth (DFW)

• Check in for rerouted flight to MIA.
• Ask gate agent about bags and am told they do not have access to that information, however, bags "are not allowed to leave the country without the travelers on board the plane or already in the destination country."  I can check with gate agents in MIA.
• Fly to MIA without incident and only a minor delay out of DFW.

Miami (MIA)

• Actually run from Terminal D to Terminal J (Where?!?  I know, right?!?)
• Arrive pink and sweaty to find plane about to board (of course Brazilians line up before first class is even called, but still).  
• Must present documents to TAM gate agent who informs me "no deliveries from American" have gone down.  Also, "American has been having a difficult time today."  (Hmm...today???)
• Board plane.

DAY 3 - Tuesday, Jan 7

São Paulo (GRU)

• Land at GRU at around 5:45 am, go through customs, stand at baggage claim.
• Leave baggage claim empty-handed.  Not surprised.
• Luggage agent speaks English.  We work to get a search and rescue mission going on my luggage.  
• Take bus back to Campinas and proceed to pass out for a glorious nap.  Also, showered.

DAY 4 - Wednesday, Jan 8

Campinas (my apartment)

• Attempt to call phone numbers for the TAM Lost Luggage line.  Neither exist.  
• Use online resources to find my claim, make adjustments to address and add phone numbers in the US, just in case.
• Call American Airlines (also, just in case) via Skype and have an eventually successful conversation with a fantastic woman* who helped me "out of courtesy."  Find out the bags went to GIG the previous night, though through MIA; so, not following my original flight plan.  The problem is that the MIA - GIG flight was through TAM, therefore American no longer has responsibility/jurisdiction.
• Try TAM phone numbers again.  "Não existe." Try them with a São Paulo area code.  No dice. 
• Send message through TAM online claim website informing them off what American told me: bags are in (still?) Rio.
• In the evening I log onto the TAM online claim website and receive an alert that TAM cannot find my bags and to fill out a claims form.  This takes several tries as my session keeps timing out and there are lots of things they would like to know.  I am also able to provide more helpful information that the luggage agent did not ask of me.
• Despite help from a friend, I cannot seem to get the given phone numbers to result in an existing phone number.
• On a whim I try calling the TAM help line in the US via Skype, wait on hold for nearly 30 minutes, talk to a woman who informs me she doesn't handle lost luggage...BUT gives me the direct line of a man in Miami who does, extension included.  Problem: he has office hours and I must wait until 9am EST to call.

DAY 5 - Thursday, Jan 9

Campinas (my apartment)

Is it weird that this is what I was
most sad about losing?

• Call TAM Miami number and speak with a woman who informs me that the bags were sent to GRU today.  I ask her where they left from and she tells me GIG.  American was right.  She also gives me another number to try in GRU for luggage as the other two still do not seem to function for me.
• Call new number.  Não existe.
• Look up local Campinas TAM offices to harass tomorrow, should it come to that.
• Around 6pm receive a call from TAM at VCP letting me know they have my bags and will I be home if they deliver them.  Por fim!!!
• Around 8pm bags are delivered to me door, all items intact, including 5-6 month supply of Trader Joe's Almond Butter.  

*Though I do not know her name, the American Airlines woman was amazingly helpful and at one point "got chewed out" for helping me because she technically wasn't supposed to being I never filed a claim with American, despite asking every single gate agent along the way and, basically, getting pushed along to the next one."  Thank you, Ms. AA!

Pa'lante Colombia!

Yesterday was the "sorteo," or draw, for the 2014 FIFA World Cup, where the qualifying teams finally find out which group they are in and who they will play in the first all-important round of play.  Ladies and gentlemen, start your stats and let the wagering begin!

Most of the news I saw was concerning the USA being placed in the "death group" with Ghana, Germany, and Portugal, essentially ending their hopes of escaping the group rounds.  Unfortunately, the likelihood of that happening to the USA with another combination of teams was pretty high regardless.

The highlight for me was the fact that the one game we had tickets to - June 19th in Brasilia - ended up being assigned to Colombia and Cotê d'Ivoire.  This is Colombia's first appearance in the Cup since '94 and they have been getting a lot of positive buzz around their talent and momentum leading up to their qualification.  Also, I lived there for five years and carry a piece of "la tierra querida" around in my heart.  To say I celebrated in front of some students and coworkers would be an understatement.  I'm glad my Selección Colombia jersey and Colombian flag will be put to good use here in Brazil.

¡Echa pa'lante, vamos Colombia!   I'm a bad American...

Mining the Past

You know you're in Ouro Preto if you can close your eyes, throw a stone, and odds are you will hit a church. For such a small town, even at its peak population of 110,000 in the mid-1700's, there are a ridiculous number of enormous churches.  Also museums.  And rocks.

Igreja São Francisco de Paula, completed in 1898 after 94 years.

The town of Ouro Preto has an important place in Brazilian history.  This tiny town in the state of Minas Gerais a couple of hours east of Belo Horizonte and several hours due north of Rio de Janeiro was founded back in 1711 after gold was discovered by bandeirantes (outlaws roaming the countryside looking for Indians to enslave and resources to exploit).  Due to the gold rush and resulting infrastructure, Ouro Preto was the place to be.  By the mid-1700's it was named the capital of the state and had a population more than twice that of New York City at that same time and over six times that of Rio de Janeiro, though most of this number was comprised of slaves.  Today it is under 70,000.

In 1789, several revolutionaries, including Joaquim José da Silva Xavier - better known as "Tiradentes" - began an uprising against the ruling Portuguese powers.  This particular effort failed, resulting in Tiradentes being jailed, then cut into pieces, his remains scattered along the roadway connecting Rio de Janeiro to Ouro Preto and his head impaled on a pole in the center of town.

In an attempt to preserve the history of the architecture of the town, in the late 1800's the capital was moved to the newly created Belo Horizonte.  In 1980 the entire city was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the first in Brazil.  The preservation was successful; walking the hilly cobble-stoned streets is like having taken a time machine to colonial European-style villa, but with palm trees, parrots, and monkeys.

In Ouro Preto you're either going uphill or downhill.

Aleijadinho's work:
Igreja São Francisco de Assis

Of all the churches, the Igreja São Francisco de Assis (1776) is allegedly one of the most important in terms of Brazilian colonial art.  The soapstone façade was carved by the son of a Portuguese architect and a black slave, known today as Aleijadinho, or "Little Cripple," due to a disease (leprosy?) that cost him his fingers, toes, and use of his lower legs.  This makes his carvings all the more impressive as they were created by  tying hammers and chisels to his limbs.  Ouro Preto is one of the best places to see some of his works.

This particular church displays two of Aleijadinho's signature styles.  The first is the double-barred cross seen at the top of the church.  The second is his portrayal of angels: always with wide open eyes and long wavy hair.

Close-up of one of Aleijadinho's typical angels.

While the mining industry in the area is still active - aluminum, iron, bauxite, manganese, topaz, and soapstone are all considered local resources - the main industry is tourism.  And Ouro Preto does tourism well.  Aside from the churches, there are several great museums, including the Museu de Ciência e Técnica da Escola de Minas where one can learn about and see a plethora of rocks, gems, and metals mined locally and abroad.  As fun as looking at rocks sounds, it's a really impressive museum.  Another place worth visiting is the Museu Casa dos Contos, a transformed mansion that served as both a jail and a treasury building.

Inside the Gem Room of the Museu de Ciência e Técnica da Escola de Minas

I got a mini-lesson in gemology from a local jeweler: on the right is the
unrefined topaz, and two examples of polished topaz. About $100USD each.

If I am ever in the region again, I will definitely make stop here.  There are couple museums I didn't get to, as well as a gold mine outside of town.  But there is also something to be said for just taking aimless strolls, tripping over uneven cobbled streets, getting lost in colonial back alleys...and time.

InstaOuroPreto?
Praça Tiradente from the window of the Museu de Ciência eTécnica
da Escola de Minas

Praça Tiradentes, again.
The monument in the center of the Plaza marks the spot
where Tiradente's head was displayed on a pole after the
failed revolutionary coup in the later 1700's.
Vem pra rua?

The "game room" of the restored mansion, now the
Museu Casa dos Contos.

Soapstone souvenirs galore!

Europe or Brazil? 

Another reason to come back to Ouro Preto.
(It's hard to find good beer in Brazil.)

Don't Be Stupid, Stupid

Sometimes not being politically correct at all times can be refreshing.  At the risk of making a huge generalizing statement, Latin American culture is good at "calling a spade a spade."  I credit this to the structure of the language - both Spanish and Portuguese are very open with the adjectives-as-nouns concept.  Sometimes this directness spills into other areas of life.

I recently visited Campinas' Bosque do Jequitiba, a park and zoo in the center of the city.  The park was beautiful; the zoo was sad.  The only not sad animals were the free-roaming agoutis (called cutia in Brazil), a rabbit-sized rodent that looks like the cross between a hamster, a deer, and a kangaroo.

But I digress.  My favorite part of the zoo was this sign:

You dumb.

Apparently there is a problem with people throwing food - and, I imagine, other objects - at/to the animals.  The sign says that "throwing objects into the cages of the animals means" several characteristic things, several of them include attributes of throwers themselves.  In terms of blunt honesty that probably wouldn't appear in the US, for example, is number one, which states that, as a thrower of objects, you "lack education."  In other words, you are uneducated.  In more other words, "you are stupid."

I do not disagree with this point.  However, I do feel there is a risk that those "lacking in education" will not (or can not) read the posting to begin with. Same goes for comprehending Number 5: "an insurmountable irrationality."  Those be some smart folk words right there.

Sigh...it's about respect, stupid!