Back in Time...Again

The last time I visited the historic town of Ouro Preto I was alone and at the mercy of bus transportation. This time I came with friends and a rental car, both of which made getting lost in the small but winding town and to nearby locales a lot easier and much more fun. Visiting over a Sunday this time was also opportunistic in that many of the churches were open and we were able to see the insides in addition to the impressive masonry outside.

This visit was timed well in that the upcoming federal holiday is in honor of Tiradentes ("cheer-ah-den-sheez"), a martyred revolutionary against the Portuguese who was captured, hanged, and had the symbolic displeasure of his remains being scattered along the highway between Rio de Janeiro and Ouro Preto, with the final destination having his head displayed on a stake in the central plaza.

Ouro Preto: a veritable "Where's Waldo" of 18th Century churches.

Located south of the state capital of Belo Horizonte, Ouro Preto and the surrounding towns such as Mariana and Congonhas, among others, date back to the beginning of 1700's, many sharing founding stories with colonists finding mining opportunities. My previous trip was too rainy to visit any mines. This time, however, I was able to enter an old gold mine situated between Ouro Preto and Mariana, in addition to the small mine in town owned by Chico Rei, a slave and former African tribal king, as well as Brazil's first abolitionist.

In the Minas de Passagem, a former gold mine.
It's hard to tell but this track is inclining at about a
45-50 degree angle!

Part of the 2kms of a subterranean lake in the Minas de Passagem.

In addition to Chico Rei and Tiradentes, Aleijadinho ("ah-lay-jah-jeen-yo") is another famous Brazilian from this era with connections to the town and history. The son of an architect, he learned to carve intricate and beautiful façades and statues, despite not being able to walk and having to strap his tools to his limbs after loosing use of his appendages, possibly due to leprosy.

Aleijandinho's intricate façade on the stunning
Igreja de São Francisco de Assis.

Close-up of one of Aleijandinho's soapstone angels,
characterized by large, open eyes and long flowing hair.

Set apart on the Alto da Cruz is the "slave church"
Igreja de Santa Efigênia do Pretos.

Built by Aleijandinho's father, the Igreja Matriz
Nossa Senhora da Conceição de Antônio Dias features
a unique cross atop a sideways moon, signifying
the domination of the Moors by the Christians.

While Ouro Preto has, arguably, the highest density of 18th Century churches of this era with Aleijandinho and his contemporaries' work, nearby Mariana and Congonhas also have a few notable structures as well and were well-worth the visit.

Two churches border the Praça Minas Gerais in Mariana.

Congonhas boasts the unique Basílica do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, famous for
Aleijandinho's last work (built between 1800-1805), The Prophets, which consists
of twelve soapstone statues lining the entrance to the church.

A Walk in the Park

A short drive south of Belo Horizonte, outside of the tiny, unimpressive town of Brumadinho, lies a sprawling garden of art known as Inhotim ("een-yo-cheem"). Within this expanse of botanical beauty and contemporary art one can easily pass several days exploring the 3000 acres set aside by mining magnate, Bernardo Paz, to both protect the area around his farmhouse and collect larger-than-life modern art pieces.

This bronze work, without title, is by Brazilian artist Edgard de Souza.

The area contains works by artists both Brazilian and international, some out of doors along various trails, others housed in galleries that rise out of the ground's forest like hidden bunkers.  In my humble opinion, this is one of Brazil's best tourist draws and should be a much more promoted destination; many Brazilians are even unfamiliar with its existence.

"Invenção da cor" by Brazilian artist Hélio Oiticica.

What sets Inhotim apart from other contemporary art spaces, apart from its massive size, is that every work demands interaction of some kind with the viewer. Whether is simply walking in a around a particular installation such as "Narcissus Garden" a rooftop pond with large reflective orbs floating freely en mass amongst reeds and lily pads, begging visitors to see themselves an infinite number times, or "Viewing Machine," which looks like a giant telescope atop a hill but is more akin to a kaleidoscope for the lush mountain backdrop or whomever looks through the other end.

Leaning in to the spirit of "Narcissus Garden" by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama.

Experiencing Danish artist Olafur Eliasson's "Viewing Machine".

Even the gallery buildings themselves are often full sensory experiences, unworthy of photographs. The Galeria Cosmococa, housed in an ominous-looking grey brick fortress asks visitors to remove their shoes at the door, and invites them in to several different "cinema" rooms; one containing a swimming pool for floating and viewing (complete with changing room!), one with hammocks criss-crossing the cube-shaped space, and another filled with brightly colored balloons and a slippery, uneven floor - all with films being projected on the walls.

My favorite experience was a piece by Canadian artists Janet Cardiff and George Bures Miller, titled "The Murder of Crows."  Housed in a long warehouse-like building, hidden along a narrow dirt path in the woods, you enter from one end and begin moving cautiously toward the center where, as your eyes adjust to the low light, you see a loose cluster of folding chairs set in a vaguely circular arrangement. Speakers populate the expansive space, some hanging, others on the ground, all growing thicker as you reach the center of the building. All the while a strange symphony is playing, growing more and more full as you arrive at the center. You find an empty seat to find a bizarre story written on a placard, describing a story like a dream-scape, pulling from elements surrounding you. As you read you marvel at how the music seems to fit which ever part of the text you are at. And then you leave slowly, in awe at the experience and a little creeped out at the same time.

A field filled with clay letters are part of Brazilian Marilá Dardot's installation.

I have been wanting to visit Inhotim for some time and am grateful to have had the opportunity to get here, as it does require at least a couple days of travel to not feel rushed. I will recommend this unique place to anyone visiting Brazil. It is well-worth the effort to get here, and lovers of art and/or the outdoors will be satisfied by the experience.

M.I.A.

It may appear that I've abandoned this blog.  Or Brazil. Or travel in general.

And I have, sort of. In a way, Brazil and my desire to explore it, has lost a bit of its allure. It's no one's fault, really; it just is what it is.

A beach weekend in Guarujá

I haven't been sitting on my caboose since September - my last bloggable, noteworthy travel adventure. I've weekended on a nice beach in Guarujá, on the São Paulo coast. I've spent a lovely four days in Rio, experiencing it without the New Years, Carnaval, and World Cup crowds; though I didn't do anything I hadn't done before and that was perfectly fine!

The fact is, Brazil is expensive: sometimes unnecessarily, unjustifiably, obscenely so. And unlike many other Latin American countries where one can show up at a bus terminal, look at a schedule, and go, Brazil's buses are often booked and the route options limited.  People who can afford to fly, tend to fly, and those who can't, plan ahead and bus it.  Or they don't go anyplace at all.  Because Brazil is huge.  Sometimes busing is foolish to begin with just because of the sheer size of the country.

Açai on Ipanema Beach in Rio

And then there are the holidays.  Brazil has a decent amount of holidays and when those holidays hit, it seems everyone who can, travels. Most of them to the beach, which makes the roads to said beaches and the airports veritable mosh-pits of vacationers. And then we come full-circle to the hotel/hostel/pousada operators jacking up their rates.

All that being said, I think I have essentially breathed a deep, concessionary sigh and allowed myself to forget about where I live and just trudge forward until June when I leave this country for good. Three-day holiday weekends are just too short to fork over enough reais to pay a month's rent in the US, to fly someone interesting and different, stay in lodging with "high-season" rates, only to turn around after just catching your breath.

Nothing better than days with no schedule, friends, beach cerjevas and Rio

There may be a post here or there about explorations in São Paulo down the highway, for a city of 22 million does, by default, offer many interesting things to do and see. But I have no major travel plans for the next five months already mapped out.

Not everyone who has lived and/or traveled in Brazil will agree with me on any or all of the above, however, I can confidently say that I have lost my vontage for travel in Brazil.  And that is that!

Last two photos courtesy of Lisa Jensen-Hengstler.

This Little Piggy

An attempted excursion into São Paulo to visit a touring art exhibition ended up being a bust - three to four hour line?  Não obrigado.  However, we did use one failure as an excuse to visit the city's famed Mercado Municipal, or "mercadão" referencing its large size.  Built in the 1930's this is mainstay for residents of the metropolis and tourists alike.

Thanks for Anthony Bourdain, these meat sandwiches are a major draw for
the entire market and the area around the stall is usually standing-room only.

The mangosteens in the middle smell like sweaty gym socks. Be advised.

Ever wonder where cashews come from?  Why the caju fruit, of course!

  

Rockin' Hike

Living abroad without a car makes finding and exploring off-the-beaten-path locales difficult.  Fortunately, that's what friends with vehicles are for!

Just across the boarder into the state of Minas Gerais from São Paulo is a region of small towns scattered amongst the rolling hills and farms.  Situated around the town of Gonçalves, there are a number of great hikes to various mountain tops, rock outcroppings, and waterfalls.  After navigating the winding, dusty roads of this region, one also finds a surprising numbers of pousadas and restaurants essentially in the middle of nowhere to accommodate visitors once in the area.

As it was a short - read "regular" - weekend, we had basically one day to explore.  Hikes of choice: Pedra Chanfrada (Chanfrada Rock) and Cachoeira do Cruzeiro (Cruzeiro Waterfall).  Both were easy with proper attire and afforded great views and refreshing breezes or water, respectively.

Starting the ascent to the top of the Pedra Chanfrada in the background.

Paul and Raquel catch their breath at the top of the Pedra Chanfrada.

Taking it all in!

The water temperature at the Cachoeira do Cruzeiro was so cold it hurt,
but well-worth the dip.

Relaxing after a long day of hiking at our pousada, Serra Vista.

As has been said many times in varying forms, "the greater the challenge/struggle/risk, the greater the reward." Getting to Gonçalves isn't necessarily convenient, however, it is worth every bit of effort.  I hope to be back to climb more rocks and find more waterfalls...

We Are One (Part IV)

FIFA Fan Fests

Every host city of the 2014 FIFA World Cup is destined to be flooded with thousands of fans from around the world, sometimes waiting a few days before the match they came to see.  Not to mention all the locals looking to experience some World Cup action.  And with three to four games being played a day during the group stages, it raises the all-important question of where to watch all these games?!?

To help solve this problem, FIFA set up admission-free Fan Fest areas for spectators to gather and cheer on their favorite teams with hundreds of other fans.  However, not all Fan Fests were created equally.  We never made it to the Brasília venue as it was held far outside the city due to feared protests, or so we were told.

The Recife Fan Fest was held along the water in the narrow streets of Recife Antigo, the old colonial section of the city.  We went there to watch the Brazil vs Chile match and only stayed until half time as the combination of density of people and lack of shade made for a sweaty and claustrophobic viewing experience. Not only that, but there was only one large screen, paled by the intense sun.  (We actually ended up watching from the Sony sponsored booth's flatscreen which was akin to being sardined into a friend's living room with no furniture.)

Hot, sunny, and cramped Recife for the Brazil vs Chile match.

Rio's version was situated on the spacious expanse that is Copacabana Beach.  This venue was popular and organizers actually added a second screen visible to people just outside the Fan Fest in an attempt to include more people and probably lower the body density.  We came here for the USA vs Belgium knock-out stage match.

Ready to cheer on Team USA from the Rio Fan Fest!

Sun going down on Copacabana and the USA - Belgium battle well underway.

Argentina had won the match prior to the USA/Belgium game and many
excited fans had stuck around to continue celebrating.
It appears Neymar Jr. now plays for La Albiceleste.

Verdict is in and, of the three cities we visited, Rio's Fan Fest is the clear winner.  Hard to complete with Copacabana, though!

Third Time's The Charm

Actually, with Rio de Janeiro, it's always a charm. I love this city.

I'm a glutton for punishment: I always seem to hit Rio when it's at its busiest.  I've celebrated New Years on the beach with a million of my closest friends and danced samba until dawn during Carnaval. Why not come back during the World Cup?!?

Playing tour guide a bit, we visited some of my favorite places - the Botanical Gardens, Posto 9, and Cinelândia - plus some new ones, such as the Urca neighborhood and the Selarón Steps.  I now feel well-versed in navigating the subway as well and the city buses.  Some day I'll return at a non-peak time and wonder where everyone is!

The Botanical Gardens are a place I doubt I will grow tired of visiting.

I came across the globe-trotting Buddy Bears on my run from Copacabana
to Leme Beach one morning.

Soccer on Copacabana Beach

Pão de Açúcar under a cloud.

Watching the sun set from the Urca neighborhood.

The Escardaria Selarón (Selarón Steps) are a completely tiled pedestrian
way in the Santa Teresa neighborhood created by Chilean artist and
Rio transplant Jorge Selarón.

Since his suspicious death in January of 2013, the steps have only gained
tourist attention and have become a recognizable Rio landmark.

The first tiles Selarón scavenged in abandoned construction sites, but as the
project gained publicity, tiles were donated from around the world.

In 2003, Snoop Dogg and Pharrell used the steps as a scene in the video
for their hit "Beautiful".  The steps have been added to significantly since.
I'm attempting the channel my inner Pharrell.

Rio Scenarium is a cool bar/restaurant in Centro with three floors and live
music nearly every night of the week.  

First Botanical Graden photo taken by Alissa Monfre.

Pão de Açúcar photo taken by Dan Monfre.